Moon Marrakesh & Beyond

DISCOVER MARRAKESH & BEYOND

MY FAVORITE EXPERIENCES

EXPLORE MARRAKESH & BEYOND

BEST OF MARRAKESH

WHERE TO GO FROM MARRAKESH

ATLANTIC COAST ROAD TRIP: ESSAOUIRA, TAGHAZOUTE, AND AGADIR

BEST ACCOMMODATIONS

OUARZAZATE, AÏT BEN HADDOU, AND DESERT CAMPING

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

BUDGETING

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS

WHAT TO PACK

You’ve never experienced a destination quite like the famed “Red City.” For years now, Marrakesh has been one of the world’s greatest travel destinations, and for good reason. Unlike other destinations that invite you to see, Marrakesh invites you to do. Whether you want to relax in one of its many gardens, pools, or hammams; learn to cook the Moroccan way in one of the popular cooking courses; or haggle for the best price in the bustling medieval markets, Marrakesh is a destination that is guaranteed to engage all your senses.

My first time in Marrakesh, back in 2009, I felt like I was transported to another universe. Sights like the Saadian Tombs, Bahia Palace, and the Secret Garden are all wonderful, but the real charm of the city is found just around sunset out on the Jemaa el-Fnaa. As the sky darkens, the entire square lights up with traditional music, snake charmers, acrobats, and more. That this has happened every night for a millennium is a modern marvel.

From Marrakesh, you can easily visit the snow-capped heights of the High Atlas Mountains, enjoy year-round suntanning weather along the Atlantic Coast, or travel deep into the Sahara. Many of the mountain destinations can be done as day trips, including hikes through rustic Amazigh villages that look as though they haven’t changed in centuries. Along the Atlantic, you’ll find some of Morocco’s finest beaches in Essaouira, Taghazoute, and Agadir. In the desert, you can discover the nomadic culture of the Sahara and feel the utter amazement of spending a night out on the great sand sea.

Finally, many travelers will find themselves in Casablanca for a day or two on their way to or from the Red City. Beyond the daily rush of big business, there are a few sights to see, including Morocco’s largest mosque, as well as a number of great restaurants.

MY FAVORITE EXPERIENCES

EXPLORE MARRAKESH & BEYOND

BEST OF MARRAKESH

Three days and two nights is just enough time to see the biggest sights in the old medina, tour one of Marrakesh’s popular gardens, and get a feel for life here. More days will give you more flexibility and a more relaxed pace. Prioritize getting a guided tour your first full day in Marrakesh. This will allow you to quickly see the major sights and avoid getting lost, though getting lost at some point is inevitable.

Before arrival, it’s smart to reserve accommodations, guides, and any fine-dining restaurants you wish to try.

Make sure to download a map of Marrakesh (or have a print one with you, such as the one in this guidebook), marked with your accommodation. This will prove invaluable, whether you are in a taxi or walking through the medina for the first time.

DAY 1

▪  Get your bearings in Marrakesh’s maze-like medina, starting at the Koutoubia Mosque—first under the watchful guidance of Saeed, your guide from Marrakesh by Locals, and then, if you dare, on your own.

▪  Spend time lounging on the terrace of your luxurious riad.

▪  Enjoy an exquisite Moroccan dinner at one of Marrakesh’s world-class restaurants before diving into the city’s legendary nightlife, from posh bars to exhilarating nightclubs.

DAY 2

▪  Explore the Ville Nouvelle, the Red City’s newer neighborhood. This more relaxed day is full of photo ops. Be sure to pack your camera.

▪  Head into Gueliz to visit the Majorelle Gardens and the Palmeraie, a palm tree-lined district of Marrakesh’s most palatial homes.

▪  Dive back into the medina for a camel burger and to browse the offbeat Perfume Museum.

▪  Head out onto the Jemaa el-Fnaa to take in the electric atmosphere of this famous square at night.

DAY 3

▪  Get to work cooking your own Moroccan meal at Faim d’Epices, sipping on artisan tea or coffee while you learn how to make a traditional Moroccan tajine and salad with Chef Nezha.

▪  After eating the perfectly spiced tajine of your creation, head back to Marrakesh to spend the afternoon bartering in the souks, challenging your friends to see who can get the best price.

▪  In the late afternoon, head out from Marrakesh on the adventure of your choice: sunbathing on the coast, exploring the desert, or trekking through the mountains.

ATLANTIC COAST ROAD TRIP: ESSAOUIRA, TAGHAZOUTE, AND AGADIR

With its enviable nearly perfect year-round weather and long stretches of sandy beach, this strip of Morocco is something like paradise. In Essaouira, you’ll have the chance to see a smaller, trendy medina with lots of art and music, while farther south in Taghazoute, you can experience a deeper connection to the ocean through surf and yoga, while some fine dining and sunbathing takes place in nearby Agadir. As with most places in Morocco, you’ll want to reserve accommodations in advance and make dinner reservations in Essaouira and Agadir. Though possible to explore by bus, this is a region best seen from the privacy of your own four wheels. Just don’t forget to pack your swimsuit.

DAY 1: MARRAKESH TO ESSAOUIRA

▪  Start out early from Marrakesh right after breakfast to maximize your time in Essaouira. The N8 national road connects Essaouira directly with Marrakesh on an easy three-hour drive.

▪  After dropping your bags off at the Chill Art Hostel, get a sense of the town’s hippie vibe with lunch at Yoo Healthy Food.

▪  Spend the afternoon and evening wandering the medina, ducking into the odd art gallery, and soaking up some rays on the beach before heading back to your hostel to make some new friends on the rooftop terrace.

DAY 2: ESSAOUIRA TO TAGHAZOUTE

▪  After breakfast with your new friends, take a last walk through the medina, maybe picking up a piece of funky art as a souvenir of your stay.

▪  From Essaouira, follow the N1 national road south down the Atlantic Coast. This is a beautiful 2.5-hour drive. Allow for more time to pull over, take a photo, and explore. Consider packing a picnic lunch for the way.

▪  Check into your accommodations and head out to Banana Beach for an afternoon in the sun before tucking in for the night.

DAY 3: TAGHAZOUTE AND AGADIR

▪  Wake up early to start your day with a little sunrise yoga.

▪  After breakfast, grab a board and head out for a little surfing.

▪  Pack into the car and head down to Agadir for lunch, a short 20-30 minute drive south down the N1.

▪  After lunch, take a walk along the boardwalk, relax on the beach, and head back to Marrakesh for dinner. From Agadir, Marrakesh is an easy 2.5-hour drive east on the A7 paid toll autoroute.

OUARZAZATE, AÏT BEN HADDOU, AND DESERT CAMPING

It’s hard to get all the way to Marrakesh and not be drawn in by the romance of the desert, falling under the spell of the vast Sahara. Visit some of the world’s finest kasbahs, meet up with some of Morocco’s friendliest people, and have the night of your life tucked in beneath the stars.

This itinerary is best done with a car. You’ll want to make sure to reserve accommodations in advance if you’re planning on staying in one of the desert camps. Make sure to keep an eye on the weather. The desert is a place for extremes, whether that comes in the form of heat, cold, or sandstorms. Pack accordingly.

DAY 1: MARRAKESH TO AÏT BEN HADDOU AND OUARZAZATE

▪  Head over the Tizi n’Tichka pass via the N9 national road from Marrakesh. You’ll see signs for the Kasbah Aït Ben Haddou turnoff about 20 kilometers (14mi) before Ouarzazate. Turn off the N9 and follow this road for 20 minutes.

▪  Spend the early afternoon exploring this ancient city, and stay for lunch in one of the kasbah cafés.

▪  To get to Ouarzazate, backtrack to the N9 and follow the sign for Ouarzazate, a short 20-minute drive. Explore the maze-like Taourirt Kasbah and browse local handicrafts on sale at the Ensemble Artisanal before having dinner at Le Petit Riad and tucking in for the night.

DAY 2: OUARZAZATE TO MERZOUGA AND ERG CHEBBI

▪  Start your morning with a tour of Atlas and CLA Film Studios, keeping an eye out for Hollywood royalty before hopping in the car. Direction: Merzouga.

▪  Follow the N10 north, past Skoura. At Tinejdad, turn off the N10 and follow the R702 (Route de Jorf) to Erfoud. Continue on, following the signs for Merzouga, about one hour farther along. Total driving time is around 6-8 hours, depending on stops. Erg Chebbi is the towering mass of sand at the end of the road in Merzouga. You can’t miss it.

▪  It’s best to arrange desert camping ahead of time. Guides can meet you at the parking lot or, even better, in one of the local accommodations that often provide covered parking for you while you camel-ride into the sunset.

▪  Dig in for a camp-cooked meal, enjoy the music and bonfire, and when the stars come out, rejoice.

DAY 3: LONG DRIVE BACK TO MARRAKESH

▪  Wake up early to watch the sun rise over the dunes before heading back to Merzouga for breakfast at one of the local accommodations, included in the price of your desert camp.

▪  Hit the long road back to Marrakesh, retracing your steps to Ouarzazate, over the Tizi n’Tichka pass and on to Marrakesh. You will want to make sure to cross the mountain pass before nightfall. Budget your time accordingly.

▪  Consider stopping over for an extra night in Ouarzazate, nearby Skoura or the Dades Gorge to break up the drive back. For more information on how to do this, consult the Moon Morocco guidebook.

BEFORE YOU GO

WHEN TO GO

Morocco is a country with four distinct seasons, following other countries in the northern hemisphere, with summer lasting June-August, fall September-November, winter December-February, and spring March-May.

FALL

The beginning of fall is one of the better travel periods, after the kids have gone back to school and many European vacationers are back to work. Daytime temperatures are about perfect along the coast, averaging 16°C (60°F) to 27°C (80°F), and the water is generally warm throughout September. It’s a real possibility that you’ll have an entire beach to yourself. Toward the end of fall the Sahara becomes cooler, with October generally being an excellent month for desert excursions. November is a slower travel month, so deals can sometimes be had with hotels, restaurants, and tours around this period.

WINTER

December is becoming a trendy time to visit Morocco, with many holiday-goers Christmas shopping in the medinas of Marrakesh, though temperatures can be surprisingly chilly, averaging 6°C (43°F) at night and 21°C (70°F) during the day. January typically kicks off the short ski season in Oukaïmeden, though the rest of the country is quieter, with some hotels and restaurants closing down for the month. More remote roads are sometimes washed out during the heavy seasonal rains.

SPRING

Spring is probably the best all-around time to visit, with temperatures typically around 15°C (58°F) at night and around 26°C (78°F) throughout the day. The mountain snows have cleared, valleys are in bloom, and the entire country north of the High Atlas seems to erupt in shades of green, while the not-too-distant Sahara is warming up for the summer.

SUMMER

During the summer, temperatures soar inland, especially in cities like Marrakesh, averaging 38°C (98°F) with many days well above 40°C (102°F), making travel difficult and unbearably hot. Weather-wise, this is the best time to be on the coasts. August is crowded, as many Europeans and Moroccans have the month for vacation. Moroccan families crowd the beaches of Essaouira, while Europeans flock to the packaged resort town of Agadir and other beaches along the South Atlantic Coast. The Sahara should be avoided during the summer, as travel is just too hot, with daytime highs well over 45°C (113°F).

RAMADAN AND OTHER ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS

The busiest travel times for Moroccans, outside of the August vacation, revolve around the Islamic calendar, with the two largest holidays being the holy month of fasting, Ramadan, and the biggest holiday of the year, Eid al-Adha. Travelers to Morocco will encounter traveling hiccups and delays during these times. However, despite this, for Muslim and non-Muslim travelers curious about Islam, visiting Morocco during Ramadan or any of the other religious holidays can be a rewarding experience. Many mosques have all-night dikr, a kind of spiritual chanting done in a group, while many families will open their doors to entertain guests. Some of the liveliest nights in Morocco happen during Ramadan.

RAMADAN

During the month of Ramadan, Moroccans are fasting throughout from sunrise to sunset. Many businesses are closed, including restaurants, or have shortened opening hours. Traveling by public transport can be difficult, with many delays in service. The exact dates of Ramadan and other Muslim holidays are not known in Morocco until there is a sighting of the moon by religious officials that matches with Islamic scripture. Roughly speaking, Ramadan should fall between April 23 and May 23 in 2020; between April 12 and May 11 in 2021; and April 2 and May 1 in 2022. The end of Ramadan is marked by Eid al-Fitr, often called Eid es-Seghir, or the “little holiday.”